Complete guide to maintaining your automatic watch
Your automatic watch is much more than just a timepiece: it is a sophisticated mechanical jewel that deserves special attention. To preserve its accuracy and extend its life, regular maintenance is essential. From daily cleaning to optimal winding, including professional servicing every 5 to 7 years, discover all the essential steps to keep your watch in perfect working order.
The 5 key steps to maintaining your Maison du Temps automatic watch
1. Wear it regularly
The automatic movement winds itself through your movements. If you don't wear it often, use a watch winder to keep the mechanism active.
2. Clean it after use.
Wipe the case and strap with a soft, dry cloth to remove dust, sweat, or skin residue.
3. Avoid shocks and water
Even though some watches are water-resistant, avoid prolonged immersion, excessively humid environments, and high-impact activities.
4. Store it properly
When not wearing it, place it in its case or on a stand away from direct light and temperature fluctuations.
5. Have it serviced regularly
Every 5 to 7 years, take your watch to a watchmaker for a complete cleaning and lubrication of the movement.
Understanding how an automatic watch works to better maintain it
The principle of automatic winding
The rotor is the heart of the automatic winding system. This oscillating weight, usually made of steel or gold, swings freely with each movement of the wrist. Every natural movement of your arm activates this rotor, which transmits its energy to the mainspring via a sophisticated gear system.
Energy is continuously accumulated while you are wearing your watch. Even the slightest movements are enough to keep the spring wound. This power reserve allows your watch to run for between 38 and 42 hours, depending on the MaisonDuTemps model, even when you are not wearing it.
Some watches feature bidirectional winding: the rotor generates energy regardless of its direction of rotation. Others use a unidirectional system with a ratchet mechanism that optimizes energy transmission in a single direction of rotation.
The essential components of movement
The plate forms the structural base that houses all the internal mechanisms. This precision-machined metal plate supports all the gears and ensures their perfect alignment. The bridges complete this architecture by holding each part firmly in its exact position.
The barrel spring stores the energy transmitted by the rotor and releases it gradually. Its controlled release powers the gear train, which multiplies the force to the hands. The escapement regulates this release of energy in precise pulses, while the balance wheel oscillates at a constant frequency to divide time.
Synthetic rubies reduce friction at critical points in the movement. These hard stones allow the pivots to rotate without premature wear, thus preserving long-term precision.
Power reserve and its importance
The autonomy of your watch determines how long it continues to function without wrist movement. This duration typically varies between 40 and 48 hours for standard models, but can reach 72 hours on high-end timepieces.
Knowing this feature saves you the hassle of winding your watch manually every day. You can take off your watch on Friday evening and find it still running on Monday morning. The power reserve indicator, where available, visually displays the remaining energy available.
Insufficient power reserve means that the time has to be reset regularly, affecting the accuracy of complications such as the date display. To optimize the operating time, wear your watch every day or invest in an automatic watch winder that simulates the natural movements of the wrist.
Detailed steps for daily maintenance of your automatic watch
Cleaning the case and bracelet
First, remove your metal bracelet if possible to access hard-to-reach areas. This separation also protects the internal components from water ingress during cleaning.
Use a soft microfiber cloth to remove sweat and accumulated residue on a daily basis. For a more thorough cleaning, prepare a mixture of warm water and mild soap in a small container.
Dip a soft toothbrush into this soapy solution. Gently scrub the links of the bracelet and the edges of the watch case to remove any ingrained dirt. Avoid using harsh chemicals, as these may damage the finish.
Rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove any soap residue. Dry immediately with a clean cloth, paying particular attention to the links where moisture can accumulate and cause dirt to build up.
Safe cleaning techniques
Always checkthe watch's water resistance before any contact with water. A vintage or luxury watch requires special care to avoid scratching the delicate finishes.
Use gentle circular motions when cleaning the case. This technique preserves polished surfaces and prevents micro-scratches that can dull the shine of your timepiece. For particularly dirty areas, allow the cleaner to work for a few moments before brushing.
Checking the crown remains essential: it must be screwed down tightly to ensure the internal mechanism works properly. Avoid using any abrasive products or solvents that could damage the seals. Cleaning your watch in a way that is appropriate for your daily physical activity will extend the long life of your automatic watch.
Recommended cleaning frequency
Weekly cleaning is sufficient for most occasional users of automatic watches. This frequency prevents the accumulation of residue without unnecessarily exposing your watch to repeated handling.
Daily wearers should adopt a more frequent cleaning routine. Clean your watch every 3 to 4 days if you wear it constantly, especially during sports activities or in hot weather. Sweat and humidity accelerate the buildup of dirt on external components.
Some situations require immediate cleaning. After exposure to salt water, cosmetics, or a dusty environment, don't wait until your next regular maintenance session. A quick rinse preserves the finish and prevents corrosion of exposed metal parts.
Improve the lifespan of your watch with a watch winder and manual winding
When should you use an automatic watch winder?
Collectors who own several automatic watches find the watch winder an indispensable solution. Switching between different watches becomes a pleasure without constraints, as each piece remains on time and functional.
Complex complication watches, such as those with perpetual calendars or moon phases, benefit greatly from this accessory. Restarting these functions after they have stopped can be tedious and may require the intervention of a professional for delicate repairs.
Your lifestyle also determines this need. Frequent travelers or people who regularly switch between several watches avoid repeated manual winding. The watch winder preserves the internal mechanics by maintaining oil circulation, extending the life of the movement between professional servicing.
How to manually wind your watch?
Remove your watch from your wrist before handling it. This fundamental precaution protects the delicate mechanism from accidental twisting that may occur during winding.
Locate the crown on the right side of the case. If your model has a screw-down crown, gently unscrew it counterclockwise until it comes loose. Grasp this small part firmly between your thumb and forefinger.
Turn the crown clockwise, making between 20 and 30 full rotations. This moment of connection with your timepiece allows you to feel the progressive resistance of the spring as it winds. Stop as soon as you feel significant resistance to avoid damaging the internal mechanism.
Return the crown to its original position by pushing it in or screwing it back down, depending on your model. Your watch now has enough energy to run optimally for several hours.
The optimal setting and fit to prevent damage to your watch
Correct adjustment of the wristband
An ill-fitting bracelet compromises both the comfort and accuracy of your automatic watch. If it is too tight, it restricts blood circulation and can damage the mechanism during sudden wrist movements.
The ideal space is the width of a little finger slipped under the strap. This measurement ensures sufficient freedom of movement while keeping the watch stable on your wrist. A strap that is too loose causes the timepiece to swing, disrupting the rotor's operation and reducing the efficiency of the automatic winding mechanism.
For metal bracelets, have them adjusted by a professional watchmaker. Removing links requires specialized tools and technical expertise to preserve the integrity of the structure. Leather straps offer more flexibility thanks to their multiple perforations, allowing you to adjust them to suit your daily preferences.
Setting the time and date
Be very careful to avoid the "dead zone" when setting the date. This critical period runs from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m., when the automatic change mechanism is active. Manipulating the crown during these hours may irreparably damage the teeth of the date disc.
To identify the correct time, first set the hands to 6 a.m. before making any adjustments. Then pull the crown out to the second notch to adjust the date, then to the third notch to set the time accurately. The second hand stops in this position, allowing you to synchronize the time perfectly.
A simple trick will help you avoid mistakes: advance the hands until you see the date change naturally. If it switches, it is midnight. If not, it is noon. This foolproof method guarantees risk-free adjustment for your precious automatic timepiece.
Protection against hazards
Avoid shocks and vibrations
Your automatic movement houses hundreds of microscopic components that work in perfect harmony. Sudden impacts disrupt this delicate balance, potentially affecting accuracy or damaging the fragile pivots of the gears.
Remove your watch before engaging in any intense physical activity such as tennis, golf, or cycling on rough terrain. These sports generate repeated vibrations that prematurely wear out the springs and gears. Even household tasks involving vibrating tools pose a direct threat to the internal mechanics.
For regular sports activities, choose a watch that is specially designed to withstand shocks, or simply leave your watch in the locker room. A well-fitted strap also limits unwanted movement that amplifies vibrations transmitted to the case.
Extreme temperatures and magnetic fields
Sudden temperature changes pose an underestimated danger to your internal mechanism. Moving from a freezing environment to intense heat causes metals to expand and contract, disrupting the accuracy of your timepiece. Lubricating oils solidify in extreme cold or become too fluid in intense heat.
Keep your watch within a temperature range of 0°C to 50°C. Remove it before entering a sauna, standing near a radiator, or during outdoor activities in extreme weather conditions.
Magnetic fields directly disrupt the balance spring and steel gears. Smartphones, laptops, induction hobs, and speakers generate invisible but powerful waves. Prolonged exposure can permanently magnetize certain parts, requiring professional demagnetization by a qualified watchmaker.
Waterproofing and contact with water
Moisture poses a silent threat to your precious automatic mechanism. Even water-resistant watches can suffer from deteriorating seals over time, allowing tiny droplets to seep in and oxidize the internal workings.
Regularly check the condition of your winding crown. If it is not screwed down properly, this opening becomes a prime entry point for water. After each exposure to saltwater or chlorinated water, gently rinse your watch with fresh water and dry it thoroughly.
Pressure variations during water activities often exceed theoretical water resistance specifications. A simple shower jet can generate pressure equivalent to several meters of depth. If you notice condensation under the glass, consult a qualified watchmaker immediately to avoid irreversible damage to the movement.
Storage and preservation
Optimal storage conditions
The storage environment directly affects the longevity of your automatic timepiece. Choose a stable location, protected from humidity variations and sources of dust that could infiltrate the mechanism.
An original case or a dedicated watch box provides optimal protection against scratches and accidental impacts. These containers maintain a stable microclimate while protecting your watch from particles suspended in the ambient air.
Avoid bathroom drawers where steam can accumulate, as well as cupboards near radiators. Instead, opt for a bedroom cabinet or safe for high-value models. For collectors with multiple pieces, separate each watch into its own compartment to prevent friction between the cases and metal straps.
What damages an automatic watch?
The natural wear and tear of oils is one of the main causes of deterioration in an automatic watch. These essential lubricants gradually degrade, creating friction between the gears that affects the precision of the movement.
Dust insidiously accumulates in the mechanism as the seals age. These microscopic particles act as an abrasive, accelerating wear on delicate pivots and gears.
Excessive or improper winding damages the barrel spring and transmission components. Forcing the crown beyond its natural resistance causes internal breakage that is difficult to repair.
Prolonged inactivity also damages the automatic movement. Without regular movement, the oils solidify and the springs lose their elasticity, permanently compromising the chronometric performance of your timepiece.
Professional review
Recommended review frequency
Modern watches require a complete overhaul every 5 to 7 years, depending on daily use. This frequency varies according to several determining factors: the complexity of the movement, how often the watch is worn, and the conditions to which it is exposed.
Watches worn daily require more attention than those kept in a box. An automatic chronograph requires more frequent servicing than a classic three-hand watch. Vintage models require servicing every 3 to 5 years at most.
Some prestigious brands such as Rolex recommend longer intervals, up to 10 years for their recent calibers. This recommendation is based on advances in synthetic lubricants and manufacturing materials. Your watchmaker will assess the actual condition of the movement to determine the optimal maintenance schedule.
Service costs and maintenance expenses
The budget required for a complete overhaul varies considerably depending on the complexity of your timepiece. Expect to pay between €200 and €500 for a standard automatic watch at an independent watchmaker. Models with complications such as a chronograph can cost up to €600.
Replacing worn parts increases the final bill. Crowns, seals, and barrel springs represent additional costs that can double the initial amount. Always ask for a detailed quote before approving the work to avoid unpleasant surprises.
Repairs: when should you consult a watchmaker?
Some symptoms require immediate attention from a qualified professional. Does your watch suddenly stop working despite regular use? The mechanism probably has a serious internal fault that requires more than simple preventive maintenance.
The appearance of condensation under the glass is an absolute emergency. This moisture irreparably compromises the metal components and requires rapid professional dehumidification. Similarly, a crown that is abnormally resistant to winding often indicates a broken barrel spring.
Significant timing irregularities —running fast or slow by more than several minutes per day—indicate an imbalance in the balance wheel. Only an experienced watchmaker has mastered the techniques required to restore the original precision on a test bench. Never wait for these malfunctions to worsen, as they will gradually damage the entire movement.
Common mistakes to avoid
Manipulating the crown directly on the wrist is the most common mistake made by owners of automatic watches. This seemingly harmless practice puts dangerous mechanical stress on the winding system and can fracture fragile internal components.
Wearing your timepiece in the shower, even if it is water-resistant, exposes the mechanism to sudden thermal shocks. Alternating hot and cold water causes the materials to expand and contract at different rates, compromising the water resistance of the seals. Many owners also neglect to dry their watches immediately after contact with salt water, allowing salt crystals to gradually corrode the metal finishes.
Leaving your watch unused for months is a costly mistake. Without regular movement, lubricants solidify and springs lose their natural flexibility. This prolonged inactivity turns simple preventive maintenance into a major repair, tripling or quadrupling the cost.
